SPOTLIGHT ON ... ARTICLE
April 2007

Lampworked Beads: A Guide for the Bead Buyer
Written by: Michele Benson

Have you ever stood in awe at a table filled with beautiful glass beads? Have you ever resisted buying one because you weren't sure if you knew enough about them? Do you own a Lampworked bead that you show off with pride? Or has the bead you purchased split neatly in half and been tossed in the garbage. This article is about Lampworked beads. It is about recognizing a well-made bead when you see one. It is about buying a Lampworked bead that will last.

What is a Lampworked bead anyway?

You are probably familiar with Lampworked beads, even if you do not know them by name. These beads are regularly featured in bead magazines and books and can be found at any bead show. They are often referred to and marketed as "Glass" beads.

Bead terminology is bewildering .The term "Glass" beads can be misleading. "Glass" is a simple descriptive term that anyone can relate to, but in actuality, is much to generic. On the other hand, "Lampworked" is a word that can be confusing. The term is historically significant, but foreign to most people. Lamps have nothing to do with these beads (at least not what we call "'lamps" in this century).

It is important for a bead buyer to know that not all "glass" beads are the same. Many "glass" beads are made in molds. They come from factories and are turned out in great generic quantities. In contrast, "Lampworked" beads are made of glass that has been carefully selected, cleaned and skillfully worked in the heat of a torch. Each "Lampworked" bead is made one by one with by a particular bead maker, a person known as a "Lampworker". Each bead is unique in this aspect.

Standards...

Lampworked beads vary considerably, in quality and appearance. Bead buyers want beads that are attractive and well made. How do we recognize a well-made bead? How is the quality of a bead determined? Do we really know what attractive is?

There are certain standards that all Lampworked beads should be held to. Every bead buyer should know this in order to make informed and competent decisions about the beads they buy and use. These are the standards that all Lampworkers should have been taught as they learned the craft of Lampworking.

As an instructor of Lampworking, I teach my students these standards. As the writer of this article, I would like to share these standards with you.

The origin of the glass that is used in the Lampworked beads can vary widely. A large percentage of Lampworked beads are made with glass from Italy but can also be from other countries, including the US. All these glasses are outstanding in their beauty and there is no mistaking them.

Some Lampworked beads are produced under less than optimal conditions and with poor quality glasses. If you notice that a bead looks dirty and dull, then avoid them. Cleaning will not improve their appearance. They may be less expensive but you are not getting a deal.

Beads made with inferior glass
compared to glass in a quality glass rod

All educated and ethical Lampworkers put their beads through a slow cooling process in a kiln. The process is called "annealing". This process ensures that the beads will be as durable possible. Beads that have been properly annealed and are subsequently well cared for can last a very long time. This does not mean that they are unbreakable. Even diamonds chip!

On the other hand, if your bead cracks neatly in half, you will know that the bead was annealed improperly or not at all. Beads cannot be annealed in a crock-pot.

Bead that was not annealed

In a good light, take a hard look at the inside of the bead hole. There should be no evidence of a clay-like gray or white colored residue. This residue is bead release, a silica based substance that is used in the Lampworking process. It must be removed prior to the bead going on the market.

Dry bead release is powdery and can become airborne. If inhaled, it is very bad for the lungs and can cause health problems. Warnings to the Lampworker are posted on containers of bead release. There should be warnings for bead buyers as well!

Do not confuse residual bead release with a texture that you may notice on the interior of some transparent beads. The color of the glass can be seen through this texture as opposed to the chalky, dense appearance of residual bead release. This is a texture does not come off.

In a good light, look at AND feel the edges of the bead holes. They should be smooth and even. Sharp edges will most certainly cut people and wear through almost any substance.

This is not to be confused with the texture that is intentionally imposed on the surface of etched beads. The edges of these beads may have a subtle gritty feel that is uniform and chalky in appearance. It is not a problem.

Some Lampworkers will grind the sharp or uneven ends off their beads with a file or Dremel tool. In my opinion, this is unacceptable. Any Lampworker that is worth their salt should be competent enough to make decent bead ends without grinding.

Bead with sharp edges

In a good light, look at both ends of the bead. Your inspection should reveal nicely centered holes. The wall of the bead should be even in diameter around the edges of the hole. If the holes are off center, the bead may not hang properly.

Keep in mind that the exception would be those beads that have off center holes as part of the design, such as some sculptural beads.

Beads with centered bead holes

In a good light, look closely at the surface of the bead and beyond, into the body of the bead (of course, this is not possible with opaque beads). You should be able to see clearly into a transparent bead, much like looking into a glass of water.

Sometimes, there are gray or black soot deposits encased in the bead. These are impurities that can come from dirty tools and glass. Most often, impurities are from a bi-product of the fuel that is used when the torch and glass are worked improperly. Oddly, these obstructions may look attractive to the uneducated viewer.

Another problem that ruins a transparent bead is foam in the glass. Foam is often found near the surface of the bead. It can be caused from boiling the glass.

In a good light, look at and feel the surface of the bead. The surface should be unobstructed.

Gray or black colored soot can be deposited on the surface of the bead. Again, as in deposits in the body of a bead, these impurities may look attractive to the uneducated viewer.

Another surface problem is pitting. It is rough and unattractive. It most often occurs on black, blue or turquoise colored beads. This can be caused by the improper application of heat to the glass or by incorrect tool usage.

Bead with pitting on the surface

In a good light, look very closely at the bead to determine if embellishments are secure. Dots, lines, and metal should not pop or rub off. Raised designs must be securely fused, rather than tacked onto the surface.

If extra precautions need to be taken to maintain a certain embellishment, such as is necessary for beads with exposed leaf or foil, the Lampworker should tell you.

If you are a stickler for technique, you will want to pay attention to dots that match and lines that flow. Internal designs should have bubble free clarity (unless the design IS the bubbles) and be free of accidental smears and other distortion.

Lampworked beads must be selected with the same considerations that you would give to other types of beads. Large, heavy beads make great focal beads but will not work as earrings unless you are a tribesman in Papua New Guinea.

You may find that you want to know even more about Lampworked beads than has been written here. Here are some ideas that you may want to consider.

Take a Class
You may not plan to become a Lampworker forever, but you can be one for a weekend. Take a Lampworked beadmaking class from a reputable instructor. Classes are usually fun and relaxing and have some really nice people in them. A good introductory class should give you a good foundation in beadmaking. This knowledge will allow you to competently evaluate any bead you might purchase.

Visit a Reputable Lampworker
Lampworkers are usually more than happy to share the finer points of what to look for in a well-made bead. Visit their studio if you can.

Read a Beadmaking Book or Read about Lampworking On-Line
There are some excellent books on the market that describe the beadmaking process. There are also many sites on-line. Simply plug in the words "Lampwork" or "Beadmaking" and see what you can find!

Practice Evaluating Beads in Photographs
There are wonderful photographs of Lampworked beads in various jewelry making magazines and books. It would seem appropriate that only the best Lampworked beads would be featured in these publications. Not so! You will be surprised at what you see (and learn)! There are also many images on-line. The added advantage here is that you can increase the size of the image for a really good look!

Thoughts about Price:
Each bead represents the Lampworker and their investment in their craft. Sometimes the Lampworker has dedicated several years to education and practice. Their beads may be technically perfect and are awe-inspiring. Beads such as these can be expensive and are well worth their price.

It is also worth pointing out that a small, simple bead, if made according to the highest of standards, can be incredibly beautiful. Given the time and skill involved, it would probably cost much less than the beads described previously.

One of my favorite beads is a small, yellow, donut shaped spacer. It is technically perfect and absolutely lovely. It was made by one of my beginning students. In the eyes of the student and myself, this bead is priceless.

Last Words
One of my interests is photography. One of the skills I need to know in order to take good photographs is the ability to "see". I must look at the world in a different way.

This is not so different from buying Lampworked beads. Now that you know what the standards are, you can develop your ability to "see" in the world of glass beads. You will be able to recognize a well-made Lampworked bead and appreciate the talents of the Lampworker who made it. You can purchase your Lampworked beads with confidence and know that they will last for many years.

Perhaps this article can serve as a sort of menu from which you shop. There is a buffet of gorgeous and well-made Lampworked beads from which to choose. You can by pass the junk food and dig into the good stuff. You will not be disappointed!

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